Unveil the Wonders of Bhutan

When visitors first see the jagged white mountain teeth that line Gasa district's northern border with Tibetan China, so razor sharp in the distance, awe is the most common reaction. Seeing them for oneself puts the scale of it all in perspective. They were here long before us, and will be around long after we're gone. At the mountains' feet lie hundreds of glacial lakes that source Bhutan's mother and father rivers, the Mo Chhu and the Punatsang Chhu, which converge at Punakha Dzong to the south. Exemplifying the sort of wisdom that still sometimes eludes other countries, Bhutan has designated the entirety of this district, the country's largest, as environmentally sacrosanct land. Jigme Dorji Wangchuck National Park is most of it, home to snow leopards, blue sheep, red pandas, and takins (the national animal), as well as many rare flora. Gasa's northeast is all Wangchuck Centennial National Park. Just 3,200 people or so live in Gasa's 3,082 square miles, giving it by far the lowest population density in a country where you can drive for hours off the main Lateral Road and pass only a car or two. It's also the least developed district in Bhutan. Motorable roads are few, winters are very long and cold, and only about one-third of households have electricity. The isolation has bred a remarkable self-sufficiency in the people. During the short but glorious high-altitude summers they grow rice, barley, wheat, potatoes, and chilies, get milk, butter, and cheese from yaks and sheep, and weave yak hair into tunics and tents. Remote Laya and Lunana gewogs (sub-districts) in the north are renowned for their medicinal herbs, and harvesting cordyceps — the much in-demand caterpillar fungus known as Himalayan Viagra — brings in millions of ngultrum annually. Tourism is still in its early stages here, with the primary draws being trekking — such as the Laya Gasa Trek and the famously arduous Snowman Trek — as well as the spectacularly situated dzong (fortress) and the tsachu (hot springs). Trekkers rave about how pristine the land is, and thrill at encounters with the semi-nomadic yak herder Layaps, who have preserved their own traditions, dialect (Layakha), and distinctive dress that includes conical bamboo hats with sharp spikes protruding from the tops. Gasa Dzong, also known as Gasa Tashi Tongmön Dzong (Tashi Tongmön is the region's protector deity), is perhaps the most dramatically situated dzong in the kingdom, dwarfed by towering Kangbum mountain. Gasa tsachu has been popular for centuries with locals and Bhutanese from around the country who swear by its curative powers, including the Zhabdrung, great unifier of Bhutan who bathed here in 1616 on his way down from Tibet. Community based eco-tourism has strong government backing in Gasa, and visitors are welcomed warmly. It's an excellent choice for travelers who appreciate seeing nature and culture in virtually unadulterated form. It's also more more easily accessible than east Bhutan, which similarly remains underdiscovered by foreigners.

Known as the land of the eastern people (Sharchogpas) and where the expression of happiness is a part of the daily life, Trashigang is the largest district in Bhutan consisting of three sub-districts and fifteen village blocks. Located in the easternmost part of the Kingdom and ranging in altitudes between 600 to 4000 meters, Trashigang is known as the ‘Jewel of the East’. The town is a central hub to connect to other regions of eastern Bhutan, including Trashiyangtse, Khaling, Radi and Phongme. The picturesque Trashigang Town is crafted perfectly on a limited sloping area at the foot of a steep wooded valley with the tiny Mithidang stream channeled through it. In the past, it was known for being a bustling trade center for merchants looking to barter their goods in Tibet. Today, it is the junction of the East-West highway with road connections to Samdrup Jongkhar and the Indian state of Assam. Trashigang town is also the principle market place for the surrounding villages of Radhi, Phongmey, Bikhar, Bidung, Bartsham, Shongphu, Galing and Changmey, along with the semi-nomadic people of Merak and Sakteng. Rangjung, Kanglung and Wamrong are some of the major towns in the district. Trashigang Dzong or ‘The Fortress of the Auspicious Hill’ was built in 1659 to defend against Tibetan invasions. This imposing fortress is strategically situated high atop a hill overlooking the Dangme Chhu River and has been the political stronghold of Eastern Bhutan for over 300 years. The three day annual Trashigang Tsechu is held in Trashigang Dzong during the 7th to 11th days of the tenth month of the Bhutanese calendar (December). The tsechu is attended by the Brokpas from the valleys of Merak and Sakteng, the Khengpa community and people from as far as Samdrup Jongkhar, Pemagatshel and Trashiyangtse. Trashigang is home to the Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary. The Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary, one of ten protected areas of Bhutan, was created in part to protect the migoi, a type of yeti, in whose mythical existence most Bhutanese believe. The sanctuary covers the eastern third of the district (the gewogs of Merak and Sakteng), and is connected via a biological corridor to the Khaling Wildlife Sanctuary in Samdrup Jongkhar in the south. Trashigang is served by the Yonphula Domestic Airport. Just below the airport is Bhutan’s first accredited college, Sherubtse College. Sherubste College is the most renowned education institute in the Kingdom founded in 1966 by a group of Jesuits led by Father William Mackey, one of the most loved foreigners to have ever lived in Bhutan as a legal Bhutanese citizen.

Bumthang is known as the spiritual heart of Bhutan, its magnificent natural beauty the backdrop for tales of spiritual masters performing miraculous feats and teaching the most exalted forms of Buddhism. Many of the oldest and most sacred sites in the kingdom are found within its four gewogs — Ura, Chumey, Tang, and Choekhor — each nestled in its own mountain valley, with unique traditions and dialects. Elevations range roughly between 2,600 and 4,500 meters (8,530 and 14,760 feet), soaring mountain peaks sending crystal-clear waters to the fertile valleys at their base. Bumthang translates as “beautiful field,” and the district's fertility mirrors its spiritual heritage. Farmers produce a rich bounty of apples, potatoes, rice, wheat, buckwheat, dairy products, honey, and woolen goods. Buckwheat is treasured as a local food staple, and Bumthang natives love the area specialties of buckwheat pancakes and spicy flat noodles. Jakar, with its mighty dzong overlooking Choekor valley, is the main administrative center for the district, but even Jakar has a rural, peaceful feel. Bumthang's captivating serenity is often said to come from its being blessed by masters over the centuries. Guru Rinpoche came here in the eighth century before traveling elsewhere in Bhutan to teach and subdue demons (most famously at Taktsang, or Tiger's Nest, in Paro valley). Pema Lingpa, the great 15th century revealer of treasure texts hidden by Guru Rinpoche, was born in Bumthang and taught at Tamshing Lhakhang near Jakar for most of his life. One of Kurjey Lhakhang's temples houses a monumental 10 meter (30 foot) statue of Guru Rinpoche that devotees believe has the power to liberate on sight those with the deepest faith. Much of the district's land is protected, its northern two-thirds contained within Wangchuck Centennial Park, and its southern portion part of Thrumshingla National Park. Just as flocks of the endangered black-necked crane find over-winter sanctuary within Bumthang's borders, visitors from foreign lands often come away from the district having found momentary sanctuary there as well. Be sure not to miss this sacred land.

Known for its weavers producing some of the best fabrics in Bhutan, Mongar district is draped in spectacular landscapes with sheer cliffs and deep gorges in dense conifer forests. The road approaching Mongar is in itself an experience of a lifetime as it meanders through overflowing lemon grass ridges (an essential oil production grass that Mongar is noted for), roadside sheds selling organic farm produces and the cheerful students walking to or from school who graciously bow down as you pass by and make you feel most welcome. Mongar, situated between Bumthang and Trashigang, is considered the fastest-developing dzongkhag in eastern Bhutan with its main town serving as the commercial hub for villagers of Lhuentse and Mongar. Mongar district covers an area of 1,954 square kilometers with elevations ranging from 400 meters to 4,000 meters and has a population of about 38,000. The western part of Mongar district contains part of the Thrumshingla National Park, and the northeastern part of Mongar district contains part of the Bomdeling Wildlife Sanctuary, one of the winter roost of the endangered black necked cranes. It is quite common for people here to speak three to four dialects since the district is home to Khengpa, Tsangla and Kurotep speaking groups. Located on a small gently sloping area just above the town, Mongar Dzong was rebuilt in 1953 and is a bit unusual for having its two main entrances. The original fortress of the region was in Zhongar before the present dzong replaced it in the 1930’s. Like most other dzongs, it is the administrative headquarters for Mongar district. The Mongar Tsechu is held in November and is famed for its numerous mask dances. Villagers from miles around come to view the celebrations on the terraces overlooking the festival ground and the valley below. There are many renowned religious attractions in Mongar including the ruins of the Zhongar Dzong (where one can still see traces of the building skills of the renowned master craftsman, Zowo Balip), the Dramitse Lhakhang (where the Dramitse Ngacham or rhe ‘dance of the drums of Dramitse’ was born. This sacred mask dance has been recognized by UNESCO as a cultural heritage of the world), Aja Nye and Hungja Nye (sacred pilgrimage sites) and hundreds of lakes which are considered sacred and must-visit in this lifetime by the Bhutanese people. Mongar town is rather small compared to other major towns but the distinct fusion of modern and traditional architecture makes up for its small size. Traditionally painted and decorated shops line the main street exuding a sense of a town lost in time. Over the years, many weary travelers have either taken refuge in this nostalgic town for a night halt or simply stopped over for lunch.

With only a few hundred foreign tourists visiting annually, Lhuentse district in northeast Bhutan remains largely off the mental map of most outsiders. Yet this isolated region has a stark entrancing beauty, its deep-cut river gorges and steep cliff faces displaying nature at its most raw. Coniferous forests cover more than 87 percent of the land, much of it environmentally-protected parkland and wildlife sanctuaries connected by biological corridors. Its primary river system, the Kuri Chhu, originates in the Tibetan plateau to the north and bisects the district on the way to joining India's mighty Brahmaputra River. Lhuentse has just 7,400 households in its 1,944 sq km (751 sq miles) and is one of the least developed districts in the country. Electricity has yet to reach some remote villages and there are relatively few roads, the first gas station having arrived only in 2005. Most farming is subsistence level. But Lhuentse women — particularly the Kurtoeps of Khoma village — produce some of the most exquisite textiles found anywhere. Their distinctive style of weaving, known as kishutara, is famous throughout the country. Many of them spend months at a time on traditional back-strap looms weaving a single kira. Towering impressively over Tangmachu valley near Khoma is the world's largest statue of Guru Rinpoche, the saint who established Buddhism in Bhutan. At 169 feet high, it was constructed with the intention of bringing peace to the valley and the world at large. About a two-hour walk from Khoma village is Lhuentse Dzong, the district's administrative and the religious center built in 1654 on a spur overlooking the Kuri Chhu and the district capital Lhuentse. Forty kilometers up a dirt road from Lhuentse is Dungkhar Naktshang, the ancestral home of Jigme Namgyal, father of the first king and founder of the Wangchuck dynasty. Other attractions of interest include the annual three-day Lhuentse tshechu (festival), which is celebrated every November and draws hordes of villagers attired in their best kushitharas. The rugged beauty of Lhuentse also makes for excellent trekking like the Aja Nye Trek and the Rodungla Trek, which starts from Khini Lhakhang, a temple dating to the seventh century.

Thimphu dzongkhag (district) is the thriving political and economic heart of Bhutan. It contains the capital city of the same name, and comprises eight gewogs, or groupings of villages. Approximately half of the district, the northern part, lies within the environmentally protected boundaries of Jigme Dorji National Park. The city of Thimphu, being the largest in the kingdom, hosts a wide spectrum of Bhutanese languages, arts, and culture. Though recent population estimates vary, somewhere between 100,000 and 120,000 citizens reside in the city. Thimphu city contains several colleges, a large stadium that hosts sporting events and celebrations, and a variety of ancient monasteries and spiritual sites. Visitors can enjoy the vibrant weekend arts and farmers’ market, experience the local nightlife (live music and dance), or explore one of the local museums. If the timing is right, catch the yearly Thimphu Tsechu — a three day festival bursting with music, dance, and celebration — beginning on the 10th day of the 8th month of the lunar calendar. The city of Thimphu also contains Tashichho Dzong, the majestic seat of Bhutan’s government and home to the local monastic body. There are many stores selling exquisite traditional Bhutanese crafts and textiles, and friendly faces fill the streets. Trails for biking and hiking crisscross the hillsides above town, offering myriad opportunities for exercise and exploration. In the warmer months, the forests through which these paths wind become delightfully green and lush, resounding with bird song. Despite the modern expansion here, many locals still wear the customary gho and kira in town, and rainbow-colored statues of goddesses, flowers, and auspicious signs adorn public areas. The magnificent Buddha Dordenma statue stands guard on a hilltop above the city, towering at 169 feet (51.5 meters) and radiating blessings to the valley below. This enormous Buddha exemplifies the beautifully spiritual and heart-centered way of life that continues here, untainted, to this day. Guests will be nourished by the life-affirming tradition that pervades even the capital city, and welcomed, for a time, into a modern Bhutan that still holds true to its ancient roots.

Located 196 km towards the south of Wangdue District, Gelephu town lies in the southern foothills of Bhutan. It is the only place in Bhutan where one would not see much slopes but only extensive plains. It is one of the gateways to Bhutan from India and is located close to India border. If one has enough time and does not know what to do in Gelephu, do not miss out the weekend market where one can smell the fresh vegetables and cannot ignore the sight of the variety of colorful spices. 1 km towards the northern side of the town is the Nyimalung Dratshang which is the winter residence for the monks of the Chummy valley in Bumthang.

- Trashiyangtse (the “r” is silent) is remote in a way few other places are. Some 550 kilometers and three days' drive east of Thimphu, it shares wild borderlands with Tibet in the north and India's Arunachal Pradesh state in the east. If you like exploring places few foreigners have even heard of, let alone visited, this district should be on your itinerary. It's the Wild East, a trove of Bhutan's early history. Guru Rinpoche, the saint who introduced Buddhism to the country, left his body imprints in rock in the late 740s at the sacred site of Omba Ney. Bhutan's first fortress, Tshenkharla Dzong — built by an exiled Tibetan prince in the ninth century — lies near the district capital in splendid ruin. An ancient trade route with Tibet is now the Rodungla Trek that draws only one or two foreigners a year. Trashiyangtse's 3,760 households are a remarkably diverse lot that includes indigenous Yangtseps, majority Tshanglas, Kurtoeps from Lhuentse district to the west, and tribes who that share a history and language with the Dakpa tribe just across the border in Arunachal Pradesh's Tawang district. Most district residents are farmers, but a smattering of artisans make their living by carving dapa (laquered wooden bowls and cups) and making desho (handmade paper), which are prized by Bhutanese across the country. Wildness pervades much of Trashiyangtse's 1,438 square kilometers. Bumdeling Wildlife Sanctuary comprises the entire northern half of the district, providing a winter nesting ground for black-necked cranes, its temperate fir forests sheltering tigers, snow leopards, Himalayan black bears, red pandas, and barking deer, as well as the rare Ludlow's Bhutan Swallowtail, the national butterfly that is native to this area. The sanctuary has several treks within its borders. Forests cover 71% of the district and elevations range widely, from subtropical forests at 760 meters through peaks in the north reaching 5,900 meters. District capital Trashiyangtse is an easy three-hour walk along the Kulong Chhu river from Bumdeling's southern border. Trashiyangtse town is home to the National Institute for Zorig Chusum, where students train in wood sculpture, wood-turning, lacquer work, painting, pottery, and embroidery — and visitors are welcome. A new dzong built in the 1990s overlooks the town and is the main administrative center for the district. The old Trashiyangtse Dzong (“Fortress of Auspicious Fortune”) five kilometers down valley was built by the famed 15th century treasure revealer Pema Lingpa and houses the monastic body. Across the Kulong Chhu below town is Chorten Kora, a large white stupa modeled on Boudhanath Stupa in Nepal. Gom Kora in the south is a sacred site of pilgrimage where Guru Rinpoche subdued a demon he had chased from Tibet; a temple marks the cave where he meditated and left body imprints (ney) in the rock. Trashiyangtse has many other such pilgrimage sites, including Dechenphodrang Ney, Kharchendra Nye, and Gongza Ney. Several tshechus, or religious festivals, are held annually in February and March. The new dzong hosts the major Trashiyangtse tshechu. Chorten Kora tshechu hosts Dakpa Kora (circumambulation for members of the Dakpa tribe from Arunachal Pradesh) and two weeks later Drukpa Kora (circumambulation for the Bhutanese). Gom Kora tshechu is held later in the spring for three days and is especially important for the Dakpas, who walk for days with their families across difficult terrain to attend the festival, as they have for hundreds of years. -

The steeply corrugated landscape surrounding Trongsa is among the most dramatic in Bhutan. To the town's southwest lie the thickly forested Black Mountains, home to clouded leopards and golden langurs. In the area directly around Trongsa, the Mangde Chhu river has carved a sheer-sided valley where travellers sight Trongsa and its white-walled dzong long before the winding road reaches the town. Energetic visitors can follow the traditional approach to Trongsa Dzong, a two-hour trail that descends to cross the Mangde Chhu over a traditional cantilevered bridge before making a steep ascent of the opposite bank to the dzong's western gate.

Known as the ‘Eastern Gateway to Bhutan’, Samdrup Jongkhar district is located at elevation ranges of 200 to 3500 meters and shares borders with the Indian state of Assam. The population of Samdrup Jongkhar is largely dominated by Sharchops in the upper regions and by Lhotshampas in the lower. The road from Trashigang to Samdrup Jongkhar connects the eastern and southern regions of the country, a connection link that that has immensely benefitted the Bhutanese population through trade across the Indian border. Samdrup Jongkhar is one of the main trading centers for the Bhutanese and it is still a convenient exit town for tourists who have arranged to visit the neighboring Indian state of Assam or just flying in and out of Guwahati Airport in Assam. In the earlier past, many British Political Officers stationed in Sikkim took the route from Samdrup Jongkhar to enter into Bhutan. Samdrup Jongkhar Dzong is one of the newest dzongs to have been built in the country. Unlike other dzongs that are built on strategic locations atop mountains or between rivers, the Samdrup Jongkhar Dzong is built on a flat and fairly wide-open area. The Samdrup Jongkhar Dratshang, the residence of the monk body, the Zangdo Pelri, a beautiful three storied stupa in the heart of the town which serves the spiritual needs of the local residents, and Dewathang, a small town situated 18 kilometers from Samdrup Jongkhar along the highway where the last battle with the British was fought in 1884, are some of the other important places to visit. The district is well known for bird watching (especially the hornbills) and the Mithun Breeding Farm (a magnificent breed of cattle widely considered to be the best in Bhutan). Samdrup Jongkhar town holds the distinct honor of being the oldest town in the country. This bustling little town which is by far the largest urban center in eastern Bhutan developed as a result of the construction of the Samdrup Jongkhar-Tashigang national highway in the 1960’s. The town is a very clean and pleasant place with a diverse mixture of Bhutanese and Indian shops, restaurants and hotels and people from different cultural backgrounds. Just past the border gate is an Indian market called Mela Bazaar where one can buy goods and copies of Bhutanese textiles at cheaper rates than the capital.

The beautiful and fertile Punakha Valley follows the course of the Puna Tsang Chhu south from its source at the confluence of the Mo Chhu and Pho Chhu - the famed "Mother" and "Father" rivers - to the modern settlement of Wangdue Phodrang and beyond. At just 1250 meters (4,100ft) elevation, the climate of the lush Punakha Valley often feels hot and sultry in comparison to that of Thimphu, which sits at almost twice the altitude. This fact makes the valley a popular winter getaway for Thimphupas -- the warmer temperatures have long drawn visitors here from elsewhere in Bhutan. Most famously, the central dratshang or monastic community move here en masse from Thimphu's Cheri Monastery each winter. Punakha Dzong is the valley's foremost visitor attraction, but there are plenty of other spots to head to - visit Chimmi Lhakhang and participate in a centuries-old fertility ritual, float down the river on a gentle rafting trip or head uphill to peaceful Sangchhen Dorji Luendrup Nunnery for brilliant valley views.

Located in the south-central part of Bhutan, Zhemgang previously known as Shemgang is covered with 86% of its area under forest. Zhemgang is blessed with rich biodiversity as well as with the presence of a numerous number of endangered species such as Golden Langur, Gangetic Dolphins, and the Asian One-horned Rhinoceros. Due to its moderate climate in winter, one can see Yaks of Bumthang migrating to Zhemgang for their winter pasture. Zhemgang district has the majority of its area under the national parks of Bhutan. The dominant language of Zhemgang is khengkha which is spoken by the natives of the area who goes by the name Khengpa. Zhemgang is the only district in Bhutan where the ancient Bon religion is still practiced.

Tsirang town welcomes you with the gentle slopes, the mild climate, and the rich biodiversity. One can see one of the longest river of Bhutan “Punatsangchhu” flowing swiftly through its green and pristine valley. Located in the southern part of Bhutan, Tsirang is mostly populated by the Lhotshampas and one cannot ignore the colorful outfits and the jewelry worn by the natives. The dominant language of Tsirang is Nepali widely spoken by the Lhotshampas. Also, the northernmost part of Tsirang falls under the Jigme Dorji Wangchuck National Park and is a protected area.

Haa district in far west Bhutan opened to foreign tourists only in 2002 and remains well off the Paro–Thimphu–Punakha path. Less than 10 percent of tourists head west across Chelela Pass after landing at the country's only international airport. Even many Bhutanese see Haa as remote. What awaits the adventurous traveler is a revelation. Highland lakes and hidden sacred lands steeped in legend, awesome light shows as the sun sets behind Meri Puensum, treks to isolated villages where few if any Haaps have encountered foreigners, temples that pre-date even Guru Padmasambhava's arrival in the 8th century to bring Vajrayana Buddhism and subdue local deities. Haa has a long northern border with Chinese Tibet, and for hundreds of years north-south Haa Valley was a hub for trade with Tibet. These days the Indian army is posted at the valley's Wangchuk Lo Dzong fortress as a bulwark against the powerful neighbor to the north, and upper Haa is off limits to civilians. The rest of the northern border is set aside as Torsa Strict Nature Reserve — protected land that occupies fully a third of the district's total area, and where no humans are permitted to live. This sequestering preserves Haa as a time capsule with 78 percent forest cover. Just 13,500 Haaps live in the rest of the land, of which only about 2 percent is arable. In fertile valleys and on terraced hillsides they cultivate wheat, barley, potatoes, apples, chillies, and green vegetables. At 2670 meters (8760 feet) the growing season is short, and almost every family keeps livestock as well: yaks, cattle, horses, pigs, and chickens. The tradition of venerating local protector deities is still robust in Haa, and many Buddhist temples in the district incorporate shrines to them. Lhakhangs Karpo and Nagpo (White and Black Temples) in tiny Dumchoe village were built in the 7th century by Tibetan Buddhist king Songtsen Gampo, and Lhakhang Nagpo serves as the seat for protector deity Da Do Chen. Chelle Chen and Jum Jagaum are venerated at Wangsa Lhakhang, the site of a modern miracle. Chhundu Lhakhang is one of many temples dedicated to Haa's lead protector, Chhundu. Among Haa's other attractions are Kila Goempa, a 9th century nunnery that clings to a cliff just like famous Tiger's Nest on the other side of Chelela Pass, and the summer festival held annually on July 9 and 10, where you can indulge in specialty dumplings (Haapi Hoentoe) and ride yaks all day long.

As home to the only international airport in the country, Paro district is the one place in Bhutan that virtually every foreign tourist gets to visit. This is fortunate, because Paro district is a microcosm of Bhutan. In its 1287 square kilometers (497 square miles) are contained some of Bhutan's oldest fortresses, the precious artifacts of the National Museum, and cliff-clinging religious centers like Kila Goemba nunnery and Taktsang (Tiger's Nest) monastery that to many foreigners are iconic of Bhutan. Mt. Jomolhari rises to 7,326 meters (24,035 feet) on the district's northern flank near the border with Chinese Tibet. This sacred mountain — abode of protector goddess Jomo, bound under oath by Guru Rinpoche to protect the local land and people — is the source of two mighty rivers, the Amo Chhu and the Paro Chhu. The latter flows south down the entire length of the district, through Paro Valley and the capital, Paro. The valley is one of the country's widest and is the thriving heart of the district, containing terraced working rice fields and the country's highest concentration of tourist accommodations, everything from humble homestays to 5-star luxury resorts that meet the most stringent global standards for service. Tourism accounts for a greater percentage of the economy than in any other district. Nature appears right at the edges of the valley's human settlement. Numerous day hikes offer the chance to experience ancient monuments along with pristine nature. Tiger's Nest is just 10 km north of Paro town, with the climb from the trailhead taking up to three hours, depending on one's fitness level. Trails from Chelela, Bhutan's highest motorable pass, lead both to Kila Goemba nunnery and to Kyichu Lhakhang, which dates to the seventh century and is one of the oldest temples in Bhutan. The entire northern part of the district is protected land and includes a swath of Jigme Dorji National Park. Geography has determined the fate of Paro district for hundreds of years. When relations were friendly, Old Tibet sent goods and lamas through the mountain pass along the shared border near Mt. Jomolhari. When they were not, Tibetans sent invading troops through the same pass. Tibetan immigrant Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the great unifier of Bhutan, built Rinpung Dzong in 1646. The imposing five-story fortress — which overlooks Paro town, population 20,000 — played a critical role in repelling successive waves of Tibetan troops seeking to invade his adopted country. It is now the administrative and monastic body center for Bhutan's western region, as well as the site of Paro Tsechu, the nation's largest annual festival. The National Museum is located just above Rinpung Dzong, inside Ta Dzong, the huge old watchtower for the fortress. Drukgyel Dzong up valley was also part of the network of protective fortresses the Zhabdrung constructed; though destroyed by a fire in the 1950s that left only its outer walls and central tower standing, its ruins remain impressive. Despite the concentration of the tourism industry in Paro, it remains a relatively unexplored destination for international travelers. Paro offers a wealth of scenery, history, culture, and ancient spiritual sites just near the airport.

Hundreds of prayer flags flap in the wind at Dochula, sending out positive merit to all sentient beings. Locals have travelled for centuries through Dochula, the pass between Thimphu and Punakha, when traversing the country. On a clear day, the views from the top are astonishing. One can see many snow covered, 7000 meter peaks including Gangkhar Phuensum, the world's highest unclimbed mountain. Gasa Dzong also appears in the distance. In 2004, Queen Mother Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck commissioned 108 chortens in Dochula, the pass between Thimphu and Punakha. These chortens commemorate Bhutan's victory over the Indian insurgents hidden in Southern Bhutan in 2003. The 4th Druk Gyalpo, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck, led the army.